Welcome to New Zealand's most instructional collection of thoughts, experiences, tutorials and links to some pretty cool stuff
|Posted by Chris Dore on July 10, 2021 at 6:15 PM|
Always worth a revisit..
After spending many, many guide days on the water I have observed countless styles and attempts to combat the wind. The following are a few tid bits to assist you in windy days on the river.
* Minimise, or better still, eliminate false casting. The more time your line is in the air, the more time you have to phuck things up.
* Keep a short, manageable line. Wind riffle will hide the fish, but it will also conceal your movements. Shorten up and move in closer.
* Keep your rod tip low to the water. Any vertically hanging slack beneath the rod tip will get blown around by the wind, ultimately affecting your drift. Keep your rod tip down low, touching the water to minimise this effect.
* Check your leader often, and use a stiffer tippet. Last thing you want is to finally hook a fish only to have a wind knot give.
* If an indicator is required, keep it small. Energy will transfer down the taper of the line, into the leader and end when it hits your indy. The nymph then turns over from momentum alone, so if you cannot get rid of the indicator completely, make it as small and least wind resistant as possible. Shorter, steeper tapering leaders assist greatly in the transfer of energy through to the fly.
* Use a heavy tungsten to push through the wind. If using a dry fly, trailing a small tungsten on point will assist greatly in turnover.
* Maximise every chance. Realistically, windy days can be tough – maintain realistic expectations and do everything you can to convert whatever chances you have at fish. Practising at home, employing the above tactics and working the water well will result in more fish caught. FACT!
|Posted by Chris Dore on June 13, 2021 at 8:25 PM|
It’s never too glary to find a few fish, you just have to adapt your strategy.
First up, look for a solid backdrop and then look for a height advantage. As hard as it might be to put into practice just forget about that stuff that you can’t see into and put all your focus on the water that you can. Make sure to position yourself the best that you can to see into the absolute best of the water, you may need to sacrifice good water to get the advantage on great water but it’s usually worth it.
Choose a lens that draws in light. My light copper / neon lenses are perfect for these situations and while my favourite all round photochromic copper lenses will suffice, why not make life a little bit easier for yourself in this tougher conditions.
AND SLOW DOWN! Let the fish reveal themselves. This is probably the best advice I can give to any angler on any given day, but especially grey, low light days. If you think there should be a fish there then chances are there will be, you just need to chill out and wait for the moment it stuffs up and gives its position away.
Wear tones to match the dull day. On this particular day stalking along high banks my black softshell stood out way too much with all the grey above and behind, so Chris, in his Simms G4 Pro Jacket took the lead, moving slowly and undetected amongst the scrub, and we did alright.
Don’t expect to find too many fish swinging 30m distant on glary days where you have plenty of time to plan your strategy. This is very rarely the reality. It will most often be close quarters reveals, and often you will be right alongside the fish. Whether you have a shot at him or not depends on how prepared you are.
Firstly, are you rigged correctly? What would you do if there’s a fish sitting right beside you in 30cm water, and you have a split shot loaded, stonefly rig attached? Probably nothing.
If you’re leaving a deeper run and approaching softer water above simply take the time to rerig in advance. There are numerous ways to get a lighter fly deeper, or noticed but not many ways of stopping a couple of BB shot from finding the rocks in softer, shallower edgewaters.
Be prepared. If your best visibility is in the shallows beside you it’s no use having a 20 foot leader and split shot rig. Go shorter and lighter with flies that will fish through the water at hand. Likewise if your vis suddenly becomes clearer deeper out, change out before you stalk that water and find that fish you just won’t cover with your shallower water rig.
When I’m switching out regularly like this I carry Loon Rigging Foams for quick, easy changeovers. I might have one rigged up with a heavy stonefly and a natural dropper, one with an attractor fly and smaller dropper, and one with a pair of smaller, lighter naturals. Simply attach whichever rig you need with just one quick, well-practiced knot, and get your flies out there tangle free in no time at all.
Finally, the biggest issue I see with anglers is the inability to attach the flies to the rod, but more often, getting the flies off the rod and onto the water before the fish knows you are there. You may only have three or four seconds to drop that fly in front of that fish you are almost stepping on, so this needs to be a practiced technique.
|Posted by Chris Dore on June 2, 2021 at 4:50 PM|
Its that time of the year when many of us are sitting down to restock our severely depleted fly boxes. As a guide, its surprising how many flies I can go through in a season and so have a few patterns I like to tie in bulk.
Whipping up a couple hundred size 14 nymphs isn’t as easy as it sounds, and when on such a mission, you’re tying for production, not for fun.
Here are a few tips that make my bulk ties a little bit easier to manage, and a lot quicker to fill.
1. Prep your hooks and lay them out. I use a sheet of foam to keep pre beaded hooks readily at hand. I find if you lay out a certain number, you’re more likely to tie them up as opposed to prepping and tying one at a time.
2. Lay out your materials in advance to save messing about with packets and untangling wire etc. Again if I have a ball of dubbing on the table Im more likely to keep tying until I use it all. Cut wing cases and rubber legs in advance, strip and prepare hackles.
3. Lay out 2 pairs of scissors, readily accessible if like me, you dont keep them in your hand throughout the tying process. Keeping your scissors in your hand saves a lot of time, but Ive never personally gotten used to that. Likewise, keep two bobbins at hand. Especially handy if you break off your thread in the middle of an important step, midway through your tie.
4. Use good quality tools. Nothing kills your mojo like your thread breaking in your bobbin or blunt, cheap scissors not doing their job quick and neat.
5. Keep only what is needed on the bench and keep it clutter free.
6. Minimise those wraps. If pulled tight, it only takes 3 or 4 wraps to secure most materials. And keep your thread short for faster, stronger more precisely laid wraps.
7. Ensure you have adequate lighting. Im a fan of natural light and so tying by the large, front windows throughout the day works for me, but a soft lamp aimed down from above highlights your vise, and is easy on the eyes when needed.
8. Remove distractions. The TV goes off once the tying starts unless you are the type who focusses more with a little background noise. Turn off your phone.
9. Keep water / snacks beside you. If you get up to make a snack, chances are you’ll get sidetracked and lose your momentum.
10. Like a job, set side the time to tie, say 0900 - 1200 with a scheduled break in between. Some people can sit down for marathon tying sessions whereas others may knock out a dozen flies and thats it. The benefit of setting our your bench as described above is that you can come and go as you need, and get straight back into it without fluffing around finding materials, threading beads onto hooks etc.
11. and finally, time your flies. If I know my first fly takes 2 minutes, then I’ll aim for 25-30ish in that first hour ( keeping it real, as we will still find distractions ). Always set goals, in everything you do.
|Posted by Chris Dore on May 6, 2021 at 12:25 AM|
Take a break from the slopes and invest in a day or two fly fishing in the wider Queenstown area with top local guide, Chris Dore.
Now is a perfect time to brush up on your single hand technique or learn / improve your two handed spey casting skillset.
Check out Chris' winter guided fishing options here https://www.chrisdore.com/winter-2021
|Posted by Chris Dore on May 6, 2021 at 12:05 AM|
If you havent seen Part One on the gear and rigging, you should do so. In part two we discuss the fundamentals of spey casting, correct technique and mechanics, how to fish your flies, set and play fish. Enjoy!
|Posted by Chris Dore on January 1, 2021 at 3:30 PM|
I was flattered when in 2019 I recieved an email from Christopher Rownes asking if I would participate in his new project, The Floating Fly - a collaboration of thoughts from some of the sharpest minds in fly fishing around the globe.
The focus was on our personal approach to dry fly fishing, our preferred rigging and how we wet up, and our thoughts on fishing them. So check out my 'no BS' approach here, and make sure you look through the rest of the site for some great intel and thoughts from some of the finest fly fishermen, anywhere.
|Posted by Chris Dore on December 30, 2020 at 4:00 PM|
Congratulations. We made it. 2020 is all but behind us and while for most it was a bitch of a year, we all came through hopefully stronger, better and more determined.
On the final day of 2020 I thought we would look back at the top 10 articles as viewed on www.chrisdore.com this year past. There are also around 400 instructional entries here on this blog so no doubt whatever you wish to know is right here under the search button. So sit back, enjoy and all the best for 2021
1. Lockdown lessons
Fly casting tutorials from the depths of lockdown. https://www.chrisdore.com/lockdown-lessons
2. Kiwi nymphing
3. Dealing with the wind
The NZ essential https://www.chrisdore.com/dealingwiththewind.htm
4. Matching the hatch
Your guide to the Mataura https://www.chrisdore.com/matchingthehatch.htm
5. Tailing loops
Wind knots and how to avoid them https://www.chrisdore.com/tailingloops.htm
6. Better nymphing
Up your nymph game https://www.chrisdore.com/betternymphing.htm
7. Ten tips for visiting nz
An essential read https://www.chrisdore.com/tentipsforvisitingnz.htm
8. Improving your haul
Because most people just aren’t doing it right https://www.chrisdore.com/improvingyourhaul.htm
Fly tying to get noticed https://www.chrisdore.com/hotspots.htm
10. Distance Schmistance
Why its important to have a longer cast in your arsenal, even if you rarely use it. https://www.chrisdore.com/apps/blog/show/14856907-distance-schmistance-
|Posted by Chris Dore on December 1, 2020 at 5:05 PM|
“What a great investment it is to have the pleasure of fishing with Chris. You will learn so much from him and his passion for this sport - great commentator..!! An absolute privilege to spend the day with in some of the most spectacular country you will see...!! I will be down there again ASAP for more days on the water.”
Its December already and what a season it has been! As unpredictable as the weather has been the fishing has been solid and thus far we have run trips based out of Omarama, Fairlie, Te Anau, Lumsden and Queenstown. River levels have been relativly low but the fish have been in great shape.
Both brown and green beetle have appeared and have the fish looking up, and there has been some great sight fishing opportunities in a range of waters from the high country Mackenzie lake tribs and the world class Southland staples, to the Otago highcountry and Fiordland wilderness streams.
Fish all round have been in great condition.
With the borders closed it has been great to see a bunch of Kiwis making the most of it and hiring guides to not just focus on fish, but to learn more about their local waters and importantly, upskilling and adding to their fly fishing knowledge.
Most have reaped the benefits of multiple day trips, allowing us the chance to shake off the casting rust, really develop some new skills, accomodate often changeable weather and sometimes finicky fish, and to move around a bit and explore waters further afield than your average day trip destination.
“With all the offshore anglers who book out our top guides year-on-year unable to get into NZ, this is the year to invest in yourself & make a few of those fishing dreams come true.
Reflecting on the trip now, I got as much out of it in terms of sharpened up casting techniques & self-belief in not spooking big fish in skinny water as I did from the fishing itself. Like most of us, I'm almost entirely a self-taught fly fisher & discovered I have 45+yrs of unchecked & unconscious bad habits, which someone like Chris can spot, show you why / how they dent your fishing techniques & iron them out on the next fish you encounter. It's difficult to put a price on that, as those refined skills stay with you for as long as you keep fishing.
I'm acutely aware that plenty of NZ anglers struggle to buy the licence, let alone hire a guide, & others would be here if they could, but for anyone looking at what to do with their kiwi summer, the opportunity to permanently lift your fly fishing game & put some astounding memories in the bank awaits.”
So if this sounds like you this summer, touch base with Chris and invest in YOURSELF and your future enjoyment of both the sport of fly fishing, and the New Zealand outdoors.
And now for some fish porn from the season thus far....
|Posted by Chris Dore on December 1, 2020 at 4:20 PM|
Welcome to the Manic Guide to Spey, a complete overview of two handed fly fishing without all the BS, presented simply to be easily understood. Enjoy.
|Posted by Chris Dore on November 30, 2020 at 7:05 PM|
When choosing a fly line for New Zealand conditions, its important to consider the type of fishing you plan to do, and the waters you are likely to be fishing. For instance, the line you may use for bowling over big indicators and bigger flies on long leaders in the backcountry will likely be a far cry from the requirements for delicately presenting a size 18 emerger at close quarters on 6x. These considerations are especially important to NZ locals who may spend the majority of their time on one water type, such as a local stream or favourite braided river, and as a visitor to NZ where you may experience a variety of water types, and be unfamiliar with our often windy conditions, then a general purpose, medium aggressive trout line may be the way to go.
In New Zealand we often use heavier nymphs than many are used to. A size 12 loaded with two x 3mm beads can be the norm in back country rivers, often trailing a smaller natural.
Big, bushy, wind resistant dries are often delivered at distance requiring accuracy.
Add to that leaders beginning at 10 foot in length before tippet is added, and often built out to 18 plus feet. 12’ - 15’ is the norm.
All the above will need to be presented accurately to large, wild fish in gin clear water, often in blustery conditions at distances from 20 to 50 feet. Wind is a fact of life when fishing rivers which source from the Southern Alps, and many visiting anglers are simply not prepared. Fly line choice, and how to deliver it is crucial.
To understand what Im getting at, and so you understand more about what you’re buying, lets take a look at tapers and what goes into designing a fly line.
The head, or the front part of the fly line incorporates the rear taper, belly, front taper and the tip and is where it all really happens. The running line, or rear part of the fly line is simply a level section of line designed to shoot easily through the guides, be relatively tangle free, and easy to handle.
A shorter, thicker diameter head will generate more energy and deliver bigger flies whereas a longer, smaller diameter head will deliver longer, smoother, more delicately with more accuracy.
From front to back, the tip determines the presentation of your fly. A shorter, thicker tip will punch over heavier nymphs and streamers whereas a longer, finer tip will delicately present tiny flies.
The front taper is responsible for transferring energy through to your leader, how much energy, and the way it dissapates. A shorter, steeper front taper is useful for kicking over longer leaders and big flies, and for assisting turnover in the wind. It can position the lines weight further towards the front to help load faster rods and assist in pulling / shooting line. A thicker 4 - 7 foot front taper is an example of a more aggressive line.
A longer front taper dissipates energy over a longer length of line and so is employed on more presentation style lines. The finer 8’ front taper of the Airflo Elite is an example of a more presentation oriented fly line. Note, the mass of the belly will dictate how much energy is sent down the front taper.
The belly is generally the thickest ( and heaviest ) part of the flyline and provides most of the weight to load the rod. Shorter bellies ( 16 - 20ish feet ) of larger diameter offer benefits for quick fire casting and bowling over bigger flies into the wind ( think shooting heads) whereas longer bellies ( 25’ + ) offer much better control, accuracy, presentation and line carry while false casting.
Short belly lines generate distance by pulling / shooting line whereas longer belly lines allow longer unfurling loops to attain distance.
The rear taper determines how smoothly the energy is transferred to the belly from the thinner running line. A longer rear taper allows for a longer line carry when false casting, better control throughout the cast, and optimum distance and accuracy, as well as better mending capabilities. A shorter rear taper allows for easier shooting and ‘quick - fire’ style casting with shooting heads.
What to look for.
Look for a long front taper with a thinner tip to dissipate energy through to the leader and provide a softer touchdown.
Aggressive back country line:
Look for a shorter front taper with a larger tip diameter to transfer more energy through to the fly. A shorter belly with longer rear taper moves more weight to the front of the line and provides more energy to the later stages of your loop to assist turnover.
New Zealand flyline suggestions.
All round, presentation style lines.
Airflo Superflo Presentation
Scientific Anglers Amplitude Trout
Backcountry style, med agressive taper
Airflo Superflo Dash
Your flyline is the delivery system to your fly, and a good fly line can bring a fly rod to life.
Invest in a suitable premium fly line from one of the top brands and clean it often. Your fly line is just as important as your rod.